Hyo Dong Gak

Pour the Sauce or Dip?

For the past few days, we’ve been seriously craving some jjajangmyeon (Korean-style black bean noodles). It’s one of those dishes that just hits the spot when you’re hungry for something hearty, nostalgic, and satisfying. So after a long week of work, we didn’t waste a second - on Friday night, we headed straight to Hyo Dong Gak, a Korean-Chinese restaurant in Manhattan that’s been around for over 20 years.

It was my first time visiting, and I was honestly surprised to see that there were way more non-Korean diners than Koreans! Korean-Chinese cuisine, especially jjajangmyeon, is such a comfort food staple for Koreans that it’s usually something we expect to see mostly among Korean clientele abroad. But the restaurant was totally packed, and everyone—from solo diners to big groups - seemed to be enjoying their meals. Despite the crowd, we were lucky enough to be seated right away without waiting. The staff was super efficient and the vibe was casual, just like you’d want from this kind of neighborhood spot.

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Before the Food Comes

At most Korean-style black bean noodle houses, they’ll have a small condiment station on each table with vinegar, soy sauce, and chili powder. These are staples when it comes to customizing your noodle dishes to your liking. And of course, they always serve danmuji, the yellow pickled radish, as a side.

What’s interesting - and maybe surprising to some - is that Koreans usually pour a little bit of vinegar directly onto the pickled radish slices. It gives them an extra sharpness that cuts through the richness of jjajang sauce. The vinegar and radish combo is honestly addicting and makes for the perfect bite between slurps of heavy noodles.

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What We Ordered

Jjajangmyeon

When it’s not a special occasion, jjajangmyeon is always my go-to. There’s something about the simplicity of black bean sauce noodles that never gets old. It’s warm, savory, and comforting in that familiar, homey way. The version here was definitely tasty, but… something about it felt like it was missing that final 2% of magic. The flavor of the chunjang (fermented black bean paste) came through a bit stronger than expected. It had that deep, slightly bitter edge that chunjang naturally carries, which some people might absolutely love. But for me, it made the overall balance of the dish feel a little intense and heavy, without quite enough sweetness or umami to round it out.

Still, the noodles had a great chew, and there was a generous amount of pork and vegetables mixed in. If you haven’t had jjajangmyeon before, this would still be a solid intro—just maybe not my personal favorite version ever.

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Jjamjjamyeon (Half Jjajangmyeon / Half Jjamppong)

My boyfriend chose the jjamjjamyeon, which is the best of both worlds - half jjajangmyeon, half jjamppong, which is a spicy seafood noodle soup. It’s a brilliant combo if you’re indecisive or just want to experience a little variety.

The jjajang half tasted just like mine - no surprises there. The jjamppong half came steaming hot, filled with sliced squid, shrimp, and veggies swimming in a bold red broth. The flavor was solid: spicy, slightly smoky, and very much in line with what you’d expect from a classic Korean-style jjamppong. It wasn’t mind-blowing, but definitely comforting and hearty. For anyone who’s never had it, jjamppong is like the spicy cousin of ramen, but more seafood-forward and less oily.

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Tangsuyuk (Sweet and Sour Pork)

Now, let’s talk about Tangsuyuk, which is one of the most beloved Korean-Chinese dishes - crispy fried pork coated in a tangy, glossy sweet and sour sauce. Here’s where the real debate begins.

My boyfriend is firmly on Team “Pour the Sauce Over!” So he was thrilled that the tangsuyuk here came pre-sauced. The pieces were crispy at first, though they quickly softened in the sauce (as expected). Personally, I don’t have a strong stance. I’m one of those “however the restaurant serves it is fine” types. Sometimes I like dipping so I can keep the crunch, and other times I don’t mind it all mixed together.

The pork itself was tender and juicy, and the sauce wasn’t too syrupy. It leaned more tangy than sweet, which I actually preferred. There were bits of pineapple and vegetables like carrot and bell pepper mixed in too - very nostalgic and just like you’d get at a Korean-Chinese joint in Seoul.

“Do you pour the milk first, or do you pour the cereal first?”
It’s the same debate, just with different foods!

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Drinks

To go with all the food, we ordered a can of makgeolli, a slightly sweet Korean rice wine. We didn’t expect much from the canned version (since most good ones come in plastic bottles or fresh from a brewery), but it was surprisingly nice. Lightly fizzy, slightly creamy, and just enough sweetness to pair well with all the rich and spicy flavors of our meal.

Traditionally in Korea, makgeolli is served in a bowl, not a cup or glass. So we followed suit and enjoyed it the old-school way, pouring it into two wide bowls and sipping slowly between bites. It added a lovely rustic touch to the meal.

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Final Thoughts: Should You Go?

Overall, it was a satisfying meal, but I think I had super high expectations since I’ve had so many incredible jjajangmyeon and tangsuyuk meals in Korea. Compared to that standard, this fell just a little short. Still, the quality was decent, the portions generous, and the service quick and friendly.

What I loved most, honestly, was seeing how many people—especially non-Korean folks—were enthusiastically enjoying Korean-Chinese food. That gave me this unexpected sense of pride, like, “Yes! This cuisine is getting the love it deserves here.”

If you’re craving jjajangmyeon in NYC, Hyo Dong Gak is a solid option. Not mind-blowing, but reliably good. And that counts for a lot.